Name: | The Phantom |
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Date: | 2/6/2010 |
Build Report: | I am new to this site so if this is old news I will apologize in advance. I was studying the CE-2 schematic and was confused by the presence of D7. It's an 11V zener diode that is just there with no function. A zener diode needs a carefully chosen current limiting resistor in series with it to perform two functions. The first function is to limit the current flowing though the zener so as not to exceed the zener's power rating. The second consideration is that since this resistor will become part of the power supply current path, you want it to be as small as possible. In this schematic the current limiting resistor does not exist. This got me wondering why it was there. I know the CE-2 was originally powered by a battery and also by a Boss ACA adaptor. I couldn't find a schematic for the ACA adaptor, but I did discover that is was a 12 volt unregulated power supply. I did find an 'original' CE-2 schematic that solved the problem for me. On that schematic there is a 100 ohm resistor in series with a diode that is placed between ground and the ACA power supply. But they are only present when the ACA adaptor is plugged into the power jack. This was the missing resistor. The RD11EB diode was to provide a somewhat regulated 11V supply from an unregulated 12V source. That is why the newer Boss PSA adaptors would not work well. The 100 ohm resistor would lower the supply to less than 9V. If you are using a battery or a regulated 9V supply on your build, this D7 can be eliminated. It is totally unnecessary. I recently ordered a circuit board and can't wait to build my own CE-2.....the best chorus ever! |
Name: | James Lenahan |
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Date: | 1/28/2010 |
Build Report: | I've owned a lot of "real" CE-2's over the years. I decided I needed another one, but I didn't want to pay through the nose for a trashed one on eBay. Being a VERY experienced music electronics person, I decided to build one. Instead of burning my own board for this one, I just bought one from Francisco. For me, this was an easy, straightforward project, and I checked my work with an original CE-2 schematic from my Boss repair days. It worked perfectly the first time and sounds just like a "real" CE-2. I used the regular values and didn't try to go overboard with trying to use all film capacitors or anything. I've also worked in musical instrument and electronics manufacturing. There isn't time to "tweak" anything and you must meet a price per unit limit. So, in production pedals anyway, using fancy, expensive parts is a rare thing. Anyway, thanks to Francisco for the lovely board with the gold plate-throughs! You made it easy! Thanks!Jim |
Name: | Wayne |
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Date: | 9/13/2009 |
Build Report: | As many builders have pointed out, this is indeed a trick build but the same advice you should follow when building any pedal;name place resistors then check before soldering, place capacitors and check etc. should leave you with a pedal that switches on first time, oh and check for soldering shorts if you etch your own board as it is a tight layout. I made the depth mod but just selected a intermediate value for C22 instead of a switch as the depth pot has more play on the low end anyway. I used TL072ip for the tl022 even though i had some as i found the tl072 sounded better. I am going to try a tl072cn instead of 4558 next, i use the tl072cn in the amz overdrive pro and it is a big improvement in there! The 4558s i have are LM type and a little noisy. I used tantalum caps for anything below 100pf, but i will change these to silver mica and hopefully improve the tone a little. All in all, a great layout, great project but used your soldering irons sponge a lot when populating as this baby will short easily. Good luck and enjoy! Thanks FP and tonepad! |
Name: | n.kirkwood |
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Date: | 6/4/2009 |
Build Report: | just a little add on. just did the stereo mod after reading that someone else (further down) had used the other chorus,s stereo mod (small clone). i did the same and sounds fantastic. basically looked for the common points on both schematics to place the connections. it was easier than i thought. |
Name: | n.kirkwood |
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Date: | 4/18/2009 |
Build Report: | i used tonepads pc board , excellent quality. i built this with mods about 6 months ago , very happy with it, although i either had popping issues or ticking occuring. the mods i did are as follows. 1 wet/dry mod 2 switch for capacitors changes depth (i think) 3 footswitch to change between 2 rate potentiometres.(different ohm rates) ( i found the norm supplied vibrato mod not very good sounding) flashing led for rate. what i did is print out all build reports etc and read them extensively , compiling a list of mods, as i was building it i found the ones i liked and discarded the rest.. What i recomend for anyone going to give it a go , is plan thoroughl;y take time. shileded input/output wires are a must! ie from jack to switch to pc to switch to output jack. without this i couldnt get mine to stop ticking. i tries many ways to get the led to flash with the rate speed, but all made loud clicking noises. the way it worked for me is as follows on the Q4 transistor i connected a resistor (for led) i connected it to the ic2 side (ie the side with the arrow (see schematic tonepad) this provided the positive signal to my led the other side of the led i wired to my vibrato footswitch. what is realy cool is that i wired a 2 colour led to this switch, so when it changes between the two rates , it also changes colour. connecting the led to Q4 this allows the led to fade on and off. when i connected it to other areas on the pc board it flashed on and off (not faded). but it made clicking noise. therefor if it fades it doesnt seem to click. the sound fantasctic i have a 80's jc120 a nd fender twin and it sound excellent . thoroughly recommended. |
Name: | Jeff |
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Date: | 2/13/2009 |
Build Report: | Very nice quality board. Lots of solder points, due to lots of parts, but I was able to complete it within 2-1/2 hours, from the time I plugged my iron in until I plugged my guitar into it. Very nice sounding chorus. It could use more depth, imo, so I'm going to swap the 47pf C22 for either 100pf or 150pf. That's just a personal preference thing of mine. |
Name: | Körbi |
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Date: | 12/22/2008 |
Build Report: | Yesterday i made the board, today morning i solded the parts on it ,and it worked, but the zener diode crashed ,but i have enough of them. I replaced the Tl022 with Tlo72 and the RD11EB with a 12 Vzener. I made also the eccevtlevel and vibratomod. The range of the potis isnt enogh for my taste, so i will lateer this day at a rate and depth mod :D |
Name: | Diamond Dog |
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Date: | 7/29/2008 |
Build Report: | Built on a self-etched PCB. Mods are a 470k in R32 as suggested by Mark Hammer, a 82pF in C22 for the depth mod and a 5532 (which I had lots of) instead of the TL022 (which I had none of). I wouldn't use the other mods. It would have fired up first go had the first MN3007 not been a dud... I already have a CE3 with the 100pF depth mod, so I just put the 82pf in from the get go knowing I wouldn't go all the way. It is very quiet- I used MKTs and 1% resistors. Maybe the 5532 helped some in there too. My summary- a great build, not too fiddly given the complexity. Does anyone want to buy a CE3? Thanks, TP and FP! :) |
Name: | anonymous |
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Date: | 7/19/2008 |
Build Report: | Started this on a whim over a year ago. I say whim because I've been using digital choruses and had no need for another. The need then arose to finish it quickly because I sold off some gear...anyhow... I'd nearly forgotten how good a good analog chorus sounds! This was a kind of tough build, very tight board. I made my own PCB, so no solder mask, which made bridges hard to avoid. I used 2n5089 transistors, and (2) NE5532 ICs. I got my MN3101 and 3007 from China, and they work without issue. All but 2 or 3 metal film resistors. I used a 2.2M input resistor for slightly higher input impedance. I didn't do any mods. What an amazing sounding pedal, thick and lush. Mine sounds a little dark, but again I'm used to digital choruses which are quite thin and bright-not always in a good way. Thanks to Mr. Pena for a great layout. If someone is planning on building this, order the PCB from this site, it is well worth it! |
Name: | Brian D |
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Date: | 6/8/2008 |
Build Report: | I used a TL072 instead of the 4558 and 2n5089 transistors instead of the 2n5088 transistors. I used metal film resistors and ceramic disc capacitors (except where an electrolytic was called for). Sounds excellent with no ticking. I don't have a real CE-2 to compare it with. I may perform the speed mod in the future. |
Name: | jdavyd |
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Date: | 4/8/2008 |
Build Report: | finished this build over the weekend. all parts were sourced from either mouser or small bear, with an enclosure from ppp. i used WIMA and AVX caps for the larger values, then silver mica or ceramic disc for the smaller values depending on what would fit. i ended up going with a RC4558 and a TL072 in place of the TL022 reference in the project. i socketed those so if i want to try a burr brown i can, but as you'll see below i'm stoked with the sound so i can't see any reason to at the moment. all resistors are 1/4 watt 1% tolerance metal film. it worked right from the first power up, though i did have to tweak the trim pot to eliminate some distortion. i did not experience any of the noise or ticking referenced in a few of the build reports even with high gain distortion in front of it. i'm a big chorus guy. i love it. i'm a child of the 80s, most of my favorite music comes from that era so chorus has always been a huge part of my sound. scratch that, the Boss CE2 has always been a huge part of my sound. i haven't done a one to one test yet. i had a busy day so i just pulled the CE2 out of my chain and put this pedal in it's place and did the whole rehearsal without touching the knobs. this was the first time i have been happy with my sound without having the 'real' CE2 on my board. it absolutely nails the tone but with all those magic terms like 'less noise' and it's also true bypass, of course. it also has the advantage of not being 20 years old, and it's a good feeling to look down and know that such a vital part of my electric guitar sound was built by my own widdle hands. it was not an easy build. it's a high part count packed tight. towards the end i got the impression that i could have been a bit more patient with it and the final steps would have been a lot easier. the board size was a bit odd as well. i went with a 1590NS and just barely made it fit. the mn3007 and 3101 are not cheap either, this definitely is the highest costing DIY project i've done so far. was it cheaper than finding a decent condition CE2? probably. was it worth it? absolutely. in closing, if you dig chorus, build this. |
Name: | Bob Iles |
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Date: | 3/17/2008 |
Build Report: | Just finished this one on Sunday (3-16-08.) I substituted a 1N4742 12V, 1W zener for the RD11EB. I also included the effect level mod, which is a very nice blend control that allows me to dial in a decent chorus for use with overdrive/distortion pedals. I've owned a CE-2 in the past and, sadly, sold it way back in the 90s when I "upgraded" to the ME-30 processor. This pedal sounds as good, if not better, than a CE-2. This was my first attempt at an "advanced" project and it worked as soon as I plugged it in. I had a little trouble running the wires for the pots as the board was placed in the 1590BB box sideways. It's a bit of a rat's nest, but the thing works so I'm not complaining. I'll be building a pair of Phase 90s soon (the other guitarist in my band asked if I could build him one.) Thanks again, Francisco. |
Name: | Mike |
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Date: | 1/1/2008 |
Build Report: | I've just finished building the circuit. It's still not boxed yet but it works great! I used TL062 for the LFO and a TL072 for the other opamp. I got no ticking of any sorts but then again it's not boxed yet. I did the depth switch mod, and I'm going to try the flanging cap as well. I also did the speed mod, but I took it a bit further: I used 47k for R32 and a 1M pot for the depth. This enables me to achieve a really cool lesley effect at high rates - Highly recommended! I also plan on adding the vibrato mod and the wet level mod later on. The build was a bit tough with the crowded board, but all in all - it's a top quality board and I had a lot of fun building it. Thanks Francisco! |
Name: | Marcin |
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Date: | 12/9/2007 |
Build Report: | I make a little mod for CE2. Treble booster. Try to densely/(short)(?) a output cable and pin of vibrato mod switch. This mod off your chorus effect. You can use a switch for this. |
Name: | Dan |
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Date: | 7/24/2007 |
Build Report: | I had a heck of a time getting this to work. After checking and rechecking for a week, I read a thread on www.diystompboxes.com about a bad batch of 3101 chips coming from hong kong and realized that this was my problem. I had 8 volts going between pin 4 of the 3007 and 8 of the 3101. The solution was to lift pin 8 on the 3007 (which was posted below). My box looks great and sounds great now. [IMG]http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m48/dustbro/CE-2.jpg[/IMG] |
Name: | JoeGuitar |
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Date: | 4/22/2007 |
Build Report: | Fist of all - THANK YOU Francisco!!! This is a great sounding chorus -- can't beat it with a Strat. When I first built the circuit I had no chorus effect - could only hear the input signal no matter what I had the bias set at. Ended up that I saw some voltages posted over at diystompboxes.com and noticed that pin 4 of MN3007 and pin 8 of the MN3101 were close to ground & my readings were close to the supply voltage. So I grounded this part of the circuit & what do you know - it works. So I bent pin 8 of MN3101 (where I was getting 14/15 of the supply voltage) out so that it didn't go into the socket. Guess I could have just cut the trace.... Thanks again Francisco. Joe |
Name: | Simon Baker |
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Date: | 4/21/2007 |
Build Report: | I just finished getting it together. It didn't work right away, but after some debugging, it sounds awesome. I put the vibrato mod, the level mod and the intensity mod on this, as noted on the build instructions. Wired it for true bypass with LED (a pink one! - all my effects have different colours) I've finally got a sexy chorus sound I can use. The oscillation wave is not a perfect sine wave, something other people have noted here when using the vibrato mod. This isn't a real problem, as I use vibrato in quite a subtle way with not too much depth - sounds very nice. I'd reccomend building this to anyone who wants an excellent chorus pedal. I had a boss chorus pedal years ago (when I was a lot younger and didn't know better) - but I sold it. I've been using digital stuff for a few years now, which sounds good, but this pedal has an amazing organic vibe happening, which kind of makes my tone come alive. Does this make sense? - Dunno. This clicks a bit when going into the lead channel on my Tech 21 Trademark 60, but when I put on the Ross compressor in front, the ticking stops - I don't know why. This won't be a problem anyway, because this is mostly for clean sounds. I now have built a Tube Screamer, a Ross Compressor, and this CE-2 clone - all built from RTS boards bought right here (and components from Banzai). I'm over the moon with the sound of all of my effects, these inspire me to play more (and maybe better). Thanks FP, amazing job once again - I'll be looking to build a Rebote 2.5 soon. Simon. |
Name: | shredgd |
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Date: | 4/6/2007 |
Build Report: | I built this some time ago and it worked right after my last solder (if I'm not wrong). Wonderful layout, tonepad! Crouded components with no waste of space as I like best!! I did some very minor modifications to make it even a tad smaller and fit it into a 1590B (no battery compartment, obviously, but who cares when you're always using an adapter?!). As for the sound, this is a wonderful, delicious chorus!! Very warm and analogue sounding! I can't compare it to a Small Clone because I never listened to one, but I'm 100% with this anyway. I did no mods, I like it "stock": I would never need a vibrato effect anyway, I find the effect level perfectly balanced, I wouldn't change the intensity nor the bass response nor the rate range. I usually set the depht at max and rate at 9:30 (I don't like a fast rate on a chorus because it will detune too much): this is totally perfect for cleans, maybe too much for distorted sound, which need less depth. Thank a lot for all your work and for sharing!! Giulio |
Name: | LoL |
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Date: | 3/13/2007 |
Build Report: | This build took a bit of debugging for me... Actually, I burnt the trimpot when I soldered it... So I socketed it and it's fine with a new one! I had to find the very right position which gives a nice chorus... I've used all stock components, and have added the vibrato and level mods. Maybe I'll change R21 to 39k to get more wet signal when level is max... The sound is nice. I had some ticking at first, even with shielded cable, but just by moving the pcb a bit and by using a piece of self-adhesive copper tape around the output jack solder, I removed it... It fits in a 1590BB provided you think a lot about where to put pots, switches, and LED! Nice job Francisco (again)!! |
Name: | jeff g |
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Date: | 2/15/2007 |
Build Report: | Just finished the CE-2 from tonepad. Great layout - it worked right away and sounds great with no debugging !! I did enlarge the pcb - I wasn't sure I could etch / solder a board that small. Used stock values for everything except IC2 (TL072 in place of TL022) and R32 - switched to 470 K (probably not necessary, but I'm leaving it in). I used shielded wire to jacks / switch but I don't think it was necessary I did all mods except the effect level pot, but I'll probably add this as well The vibrato mod and the wet bass mod produce the biggest changes in mine, the intensity cap not so different with 47 pf and 100 pf caps - but I've socketed them so I'll experiment. The chorus sounds great, no ticking, nice range of sounds. Highly recommended. |
Name: | Jonathan Perez |
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Date: | 2/9/2007 |
Build Report: | BUILT! took a bit of debugging, but only simple problems. i dropped it into a custom wah shell, so i can control the rate of the LFO with the rocker. all polystyrene caps. No ticking of any sort, and no hum. id say this build is error free. :-D also, i used a switch to choose between 47pF (chorus) and +-20pF (flange) for C22. ill eventually ramp up R32 for more speed...maybe later today. thanks for the layout! Jonathan Perez Sunshine Wahs |
Name: | MartyM |
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Date: | 11/29/2006 |
Build Report: | Just finished my Chorus this morning and it sounds superb !. Thanks to FP for such a beautiful board layout, I had no "ticks or hums" at all - and did not use shielded cable, in fact it's not even boxed yet !!. I added the vibrato switch/blend pot which was a 250k lin, but it works fine for just backing off the effect a little. I used a 68pf for C22, so have a bit more depth to the chorus and I changed R32 for a 470k- I recommend this for a better "rate" range ...nice !! Thanks to steve daniels for the chips and other parts :D Marty |
Name: | Insane guitar |
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Date: | 9/16/2006 |
Build Report: | Wow... have to say... when i fist built it... I sorta liked it, used bc550 of various types... 550b, 550c... This week I changed it to bc549b... and wow! the effect was so much better... I think itīs the best chorus ever.. in my opinion.. of course because of the mods that I have made: Made the fading blinking led... not just it blinks when the LFO oscilates.. itīs fading on the speed to the lfo speed... and the intensity light of the led changes acording to the Depht.. really... itīs beautfull, I have made this with a millenium 1 with the control of millenium on R36 to Q4.. donīt change the sound.. Iīm sure of this!.. if you try this... donīt forget to put an resistor in one leg of LED to the another leg.. Made the effect level.. changed R22 to 39k to get more level on the maximum of the pot.. Made a stereo mod.. stealing the idea of the small clone.. and itīs works perfectly! Made 3 different intensity control of the capacitor... And of course... changed R32 to something 560k.. now itīs ultra versatile chorus.. Donīt have to say... BUILD THIS CHORUS if ya wanna have lot of fun!!! From Brazil! |
Name: | J Kung |
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Date: | 8/31/2006 |
Build Report: | Just built this ... great chorus. I added the norm/deep switch option (used a 47p) and the effect pot option. It works great. You have to make sure the IN wire is either shielded or away from the LFO section, or you will get some slight ticking. I also used a TL062 for the LFO for lower current consumption/induced noise on the power supply/ground. Overall, this is a great chorus ... very pristine and airy. It seems to have more clarity and crispness than the Small Clone chorus design. |
Name: | Michael |
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Date: | 8/23/2006 |
Build Report: | Just finished this one the other day and it fired right up. A plus for me considering my last build is still being "debugged". I did the vibrato mode but used a stompswitch so I can switch between chorus and vibrato. Vibrato, as stated by another, sounds a bit uneven. Not being an expert on these things I'm not sure why but it is useable on faster, less deep settings. With it very deep and slow you start to notice the uneveness. Chorus is full and lush! Went directly to my pedal board. Thanks for the project! |
Name: | Morocotopo |
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Date: | 8/20/2006 |
Build Report: | Built a Ce-2, success! Etched my own PCB, even. Never heard an original CE-2, but this sounds great. I added a effect level control as per the project, itīs very useful, it complements the Depth control, they kind of have the same function, but not exactly, they work in a complementary way. Replacements: RD11EB: replaced by a 12V/0,5W zener diode TL022: replaced by TL062 (could also be TL072) 1N914: replaced by 1N4148 I tried the vibrato mod but to me wasnīt worth it, the vibrato was kind of uneven. You MUST use shielded cable between input/output from jacks to switch, and between input/output from switch to board, with only one end of the shield in each cable connected to ground!!! Otherwise, you will get LFO ticking! Without it, there was ticking all over the place, once I used shielded cable, it was TOTALLY silent, wich means that the tonepad PCB works PERFECTLY!! Great project, Franciso. Thanks for your generosity. |
Name: | Tony Bell |
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Date: | 4/26/2006 |
Build Report: | I put it all together via the perfboard method and went through the schematic a couple of times making checkmarks. Applied power and got a nice clean buffered tone but no shimmer. I got a manually chorus sound by tweaking the trimmer, so I knew at least that worked. Went back through the schematic a couple of times. Everything was in the right place and had continuity. Got frustrated and put it down for a week. Got back on it early this morning an finally realized that I accidentally used a 27K in R30 instead of the required 47K. DOH!! Great sound. Now I can get back to those nice Andy Summers-esque tones I was using before my original "Japanese silver screw" CE-2 was ripped off from me. Now for those mods Mark's describing... Thanks guys! Your tight/right angle heavy layouts are suprisingly great for perfboard construction with a minimal of jumpers needed. |
Name: | Mark Hammer |
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Date: | 4/12/2006 |
Build Report: | Built one a few months back. Etched the board using glossy photo paper, and it worked "right out of the box". That doesn't happen often, so thanks to Francisco for whatever part the layout played in that. A classic chorus with a classic sound. Pleasingly problem-free performance. Mine includes a wet-mix control and vibrato option. I may add a bass-cut option. I've done this to other chorus pedals and I find it makes the pedal more usable with bass, and helps achieve a more subtle chorus effect for when you want just a touch. I find the speed range decent, though I might want to add just a touch more speed (e.g., up the rate by 1hz to what's already there). This may well be simply a matter of component tolerances, rather than a matter of design. |
Name: | juls |
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Date: | 4/2/2006 |
Build Report: | Nice chorus!!! Rate too slow for me. Fixed it by replacing R32 with 500k. Now, that's more like it. Thanks fp and tonepad. |
Name: | Ryan Galaites |
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Date: | 2/10/2006 |
Build Report: | Nice and quiet chorus. Still sounds clean even on max settings in my case. Vibrato mod and intensity cap mod adds versatility. Here in the Philippines, I bought my MN3007 together with the MN3101 for a total price of Php60.00(roughly a little over a USD1.00). Very cheap! A must build for any Filipino guitar fx diy'ers. THANKS Francisco! |
Name: | Antonello |
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Date: | 1/23/2006 |
Build Report: | Great sound !! I have moddS the circuit for MN3207 ad MN3102 (at 5 volt) and I have used the BC549B. The chorus sound very pleasure and kool ;o)) Thank you Tonepad for this effects ;O)) |
Name: | Andretufo |
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Date: | 12/20/2005 |
Build Report: | Very, very good effect, realy!!!!!!You can believe that iīm say to you, i build it and i didnīt have problems, works better at the first time..... I recommend.... Regards.......Andretufo from Brazil....... |
Name: | Tom Marschal |
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Date: | 12/1/2005 |
Build Report: | I had built the small Clone before, but contrary to most DIYers’ rave reviews it didn’t sound chorussy enough for my taste. The mods didn’t help either, so when a friend asked me to build a Chorus for him, and the CE-2 had just been added to this site, I decided to go for it. Damn, I could even recycle the Clone’s expensive MN3007-chip… As usual, I chose perfboard. What!?!! That’s right, I said I chose perfboard (with copper holes) for this circuit. I needed the challenge. So I built it. Exactly, it wouldn’t work immediately. There was only a subtle chorus effect, which was hardly audible, due to the loud crackle noise the thing created. After losing a couple of nerves, I found the mistake: a simple bad solder joint at an extra lug I had added for the tremolo option. I repaired that and decided to not include the Tremolo option, after all this was supposed to be a goddamn chorus effect, right? Then I had a wonderful chorus effect… except for the slight distortion. Well, this turned out to be a matter of the trimpot setting. Turning the trimpot does this: no chorus – chorus – distorted chorus. You choose! The mods: I did both the Wet Bass and the extra depth mod. Wet bass mod took a little bass response out of the signal, that’s what it’s supposed to do, I guess, but it was very subtle, so I got rid of that, too. The depth switch really made a difference, so I kept that. How did I do it? I soldered two wires to the ends of the 47pF cap which go to a SPDT switch with another 47pF cap soldered to it. A little tricky, but I works perfectly. I didn’t experiment with other cap values, this is it. When I boxed the thing there was a ticking noise at first, i t disappeared when I turned rotated the board 180 degrees. The sound: Warm/cold? I dunno, this sounds like a great chorus is supposed to sound, IMHO. Everything from subtle to spooky wobble, even if the rate range is a little limited, compared to the Small Clone. It also sounds great with an Overdrive pedal, but the Chorus has to come first. May I add, my CE-2 also looks cool, I printed a design on thick paper, which is covered by a piece of transparent purple acrylic glass, sized like the box. Both are held down by the footswitch and the pots. Now when activated, the LED light (blue, of course, mounted in fresnel lense) luminates the edges of the surface. Can You follow? Looks killer. Sad I had to give it away. Great chorus, build it! |
Name: | Gang |
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Date: | 11/29/2005 |
Build Report: | This is a nice chorus but i suggest, as in the first build report, that you change the mixing resistor to something a little bit lower in order to have more effect when the pedal is on. I made the mixing pot mod and it's not really usable because turning the pot even a little cuts almost all the wet signal. Anyway, this is a very nice chorus, a nice layout and i recommend it as chorus is a must-have for any guitarist. |
Name: | Urban Osterman |
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Date: | 11/24/2005 |
Build Report: | I have finnished the TonePad Chorus CE-2. It sounds very good, when I compare it to my original Boss CE-2. It was very straightforward building it. I used metalfilm-resistors and Polycarb capacitors, even the 1uF ones. I got the BBDchips from SmallBear, I made some modifications. I changed R22 (47K mixing resistor) to 39K plus a 250K logaritmic pot. Giving me a variable mix-level of the Wet delayed signal, just as the CE-2B pedal. I set the pot as an attenuator, so that fully CCW is full delayed signal (minimum resistance) giving a mix resistance of 39K. Turning it CW add more resistance (turning the wet, delayed signal off). This gave me slightly more chorus effect (when the pot is full CCW) and about a third of the pot is about 8-10k (at 11 o'clock) giving the standard 47K mix-resistance. I could have used a reverse log pot for this, but they are hard to find. I also added a 100K pot instead of R26, giving me an output volume control. To furher improve the noise, I made some changes. There is a jumper close to IC2 (the oscillator) for the 9V power supply. To isolate the powerline for the Oscillator I inserted a 100 ohm resistor instead of the jumper. I then moved the +9V power supply cable to the other side of this new resistor, close to D7. plenty of room to drill an extra hole between d7 and C29. I then added a 10uF tantal cap plus a 560pF cap across the power supply to IC2 (between pin 4 and 8). This will isolate the oscillator from the power of the rest of the circuit, as the oscillator itself put out some noise on the power line and groundpath.. A tiny, tiny click at the speed of the oscillator, is audible on the output. Then I incorporated the 'star-ground' approach to IC2. By cutting the Ground-path just under R52, to isolate R37 and the ground-pin of IC2 (pin4). I then soldered a separate ground-lead to this, plenty of room for this between pin 4 and r37, Connect this separate ground path to where the ground enters the stompbox itself. I used a 475Kohm resistor as Rin. I used an TL072 as IC2, and Burr-Brown OPA2604 as IC1. Experiment with adding an effect in front of the CE-2, such as an Orange Squeezer or something, instead of the guitar directly to CE-2, and it will make even lesser noise (clicks). Also experiment with connecting two CE-2 in series to get the sound of the intro of Prince Purple rain, You get that chorus into chorus sound... Really cool. Add an Orange Squeezer and your stratocaster to this and you're in guitar sound heaven. Thanks Francisco for another great project. |
Name: | Fabio Castro |
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Date: | 10/21/2005 |
Build Report: | Hi. Iīm from Brazil. I just build this project and itīs sound amazing. I think que LFO is a little slow when compared with the Small Clone. But it sounds very close to the original CE-2. |
Name: | max |
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Date: | 10/20/2005 |
Build Report: | Hi!I build it in a couple of days,and it worked at the first shot!It seems to be a little "cold" compared to my original CE2,but i believe it depends on some components;i didnt find the 2n5088 and replaced with BC550B.I will make some mods to find the right tone,and pull out the little "harsh" i ear!!!!Try the vibrato and depth mods,they works fine!!! Great PCB,Great TONEPAD!!! |